Buddy (aka, Grandpa B) and I had a great experience on Saturday; we got to take a cruise on the S.S. John W. Brown, a restored World War II
Liberty Ship. The
S.S. John W. Brown was built in 54 days in 1942 and made nine voyages during the war and several more after. She started out by delivering supplies to the Soviets and ended up participating in the Anzio Invasion in Italy and D-Day. After the war, the ship was converted to a floating school in New York and was active in that capacity until 1982. In 1988, it was towed down to Baltimore for restoration by the non-profit group that operates it today. We were two of the five hundred or so people on board that day for one of the three sailings that the ship makes each year.

The trip started on a pier in Baltimore, just off I-95. We climbed up the gangway and picked up some breakfast before exploring the ship to find a good spot to set up our chairs. Before getting underway, the guests of honor arrived. Impersonators for President Franklin Roosevelt and General Douglas McArthur arrived in a 1930's convertible and an Army jeep, respectively. "McArthur" was decked out in period military costume and "FDR" was even hoisted onto the ship in his wheelchair, with a stern warning from the bridge beforehand that "there will be no photographs of the President in his wheelchair". During the cruise, the impersonators reenacted the famous speeches of their characters, with "FDR" reciting the speech that the real President Roosevelt gave on the day after the Pearl Harbor attack.

After leaving port, the ship sailed down the Patapsco River (I looked for the docks that were the setting for much of the second season of
The Wire), around Fort McHenry, and out into the Chesapeake. While the ship was underway, Buddy and I checked out the ship, including the upper decks with the machine guns and the big 5-inch gun that was used to defend the ship. Most of the ship was open for inspection, including the bridge, several of the bunks (3 men to a bunk), and the engine room. The guide and the announcer warned visitors that the temperatures in the engine room could reach up to 130 degrees and that the ladders in the engine room were steep, so it was not a tour for the faint of heart. Buddy and I both made it down to the upper level of the engine room, where the top of the triple-expansion steam engine could be seen, but Buddy wisely opted against seeing just how hot and cramped the lower level really was. On the lower level, I was able to peer in and see the operating parts of the engine, all of which are open. The enormous piston rods (probably 4-6 inches in diameter) cycle up and down into the boiler at a fast clip. The pace was surprising, since I had read that the men maintaining the engine would stick their hands into the moving machinery, feeling the bearings for excessive heat and applying oil as needed. The young guy who was in the engine room learning how to maintain it told me that the old timers--the ones who were old enough to have served on the ship during the war or shortly thereafter--still stuck their hands in to check the moving parts. It seemed to me like a good way to earn the nickname, "Stumpy".

After a while on the water, we reached our turnaround point, which was within sight of the Bay Bridge, just north of Annapolis. The ship came to a stop and we waited for the aircraft to arrive. Part of the cruise was an airshow involving aircraft from World War II: a Japanese
Zero, a Japanese dive bomber, a
P-51 Mustang, a small spotter plane, and a big
B-25 bomber. The heat and the lack of a good breeze was starting to get to us, but then the spotter plane arrived for a few passes alongside the ship before rising to a higher altitude to maintain radio contact with the tower and to guide the other planes in. Not long after that, the Zero and the Japanese dive bomber flew in and began buzzing the ship. The noise and excitement of the planes' "attacks" made us wonder how terrifying it must have been to be fired upon by such planes or to have one approach and not veer off at the last minute like the planes in the air show did. After several close passes alongside the ship, the Japanese planes broke off to deal with the P-51 Mustang that came to chase them away. The P-51 is a magnificent aircraft; it made some close flybys of the ship, showing off for the passengers. Finally, the big bomber arrived and flew low and loud over the ship several times before heading back home. Once the air show concluded, we turned back and headed towards Baltimore.
All in all, it was a great trip. Apart from some hot spots, especially when we idled near the Bay Bridge waiting for the aircraft, the weather was good. There was a cool breeze for much of the trip and it was nice to be out on the water taking in the scenery. There was also no shortage of boats to see, many of which approached the ship in the Bay to watch the air show. By our calculations, at 42 gallons per mile, the ship burned a good 1,200 or so gallons of fuel for the voyage, so that goes a long way towards explaining the ticket cost. With 500 people on board, we also concluded that the sailors manning a Liberty Ship during the war probably preferred voyages hauling cargo over those transporting 450 troops and their gear to the war theater. Emblematic of the ever-increasing age of World War II veterans, the ship was greeted at port by an ambulance. However, in true Buddy fashion, we managed to slip through the crowds and were the first car off the docks at the end of the trip. Not a bad end to a six-hour tour.